(I wrote this a while ago, but because of internet-lack and various bizness I didn't get around to posting it until now. I also didn't take into account the latest posts dealing with sexuality and clothing...)
Defense of Shame Shame is the first step towards becoming human, and the first step away from an animal nature that is, in terms of civilization, unhealthy and dangerous.
Brandon recommends "introspectively burning out Shame, and consciously replacing it with Humility, or Deference." I believe this process is both impossible and incomplete:
It is impossible because shame provides the unconscious base which the subject must stand upon in order to fully believe or feel the conscious emotions of deference and humility. In the typically pellucid words of Bruce Fink, "a principle is nothing in someone's psychical reality until a quantum of libido has been attached to it ... A moral principle, like any other thought, has to be cathected before it can play a role in someone's psychical economy." Shame represents humility and deference cathected through the superego's edict.
It is incomplete because shame at one's animal nature is not only about nudity, it is about sexual desire, and deeper still, violent aggression. Taking the Freudian wager, every human retains an animal nature, which unrepressed could express itself through violence. Should one simply have humility about a desire to kill? That simply wouldn't work. Shame's great importance is its role as enforcer of superegoic law, allowing one to function as a member of human society. A grizzly bear has no shame, nor does a psychopath. Shame changes reality- from animal-reality to human-reality, natural to civilized.
The intertwining of sex and aggression necessitates shame as cathectically-empowered moral enforcer. (-- which incidentally forms the basis of a very convincing argument against sexual liberalism,.. I think).
Deferential Garb Very simply put, "To wear stone-washed jeans is to signal a certain attitude to life."* In the same way, to wear outlandish clothes is to signal a certain attitude to life-- I would argue, one that can never be truly deferential.
(Dan says above, "can it not be said that dressing outlandishly is in a lot of ways practice for other sorts of rebellion later in life?" Indeed it can, but the question I wish to raise is, whether or not this rebellious attitude is a good thing. I have grown less and less convinced of the value of this kind of rebellious approach to life. I think the punk and hippy movements succeeded mostly in creating a youth-cultural tradition of arrogance, anti-historicism, shallow art, simple-minded politics, general non-helpfulness, and symbolic patricide (a masochistic attempt to induce the enforcement of paternal law)-- (with punk being the greater offender, since the hippies embraced certain natural and ancient notions). For me, a better future culture for which a youth should prepare would simply be historically deferential, open-minded, self-questioning, and intellectually-inclined. The general acceptance of rebellion as the goal of youth culture is, I believe, destructive, pointless, and in dire need of Freudian critique. It is unequivocally better to build on and progress from history rather than reject it in favor of contemporary forms. --but anyway...) In an attempt to perhaps develop a method of clothing-interpretation, a dictionary of the symbolic language of clothes, let me list some examples:
--To wear a clown wig signals that you have a comic and happy-go-lucky outlook on life. (a clown-wig at a drunken party can increase the good-cheer of all present, however a clown-wig at a funeral would not similarly succeed in raising spirits)
--To wear 'sexy' clothing signals that you have a 'sexed' outlook on life. (which doesn't however imply that said person partakes in sex, but rather that they acknowledge their own status as a sexual subject/object)
--To wear flip-flops signals that you have a laid-back outlook on life. (laidbackness does not necessarily imply happiness, but often implies a lacuna of passion and/or motivation)
--To wear a business suit implies that you are business-minded. (however, being business-minded does not imply success-- we can all imagine the person working a low-level office job wearing an expensive suit to repress the humiliating truth of his position)
One could go on and on.. and probably be guilty of a myriad of unfortunate generalizations, of course. But I'll continue anyway, with the matter previously mentioned--
--To wear outlandish clothes, and not be insane or out-of-touch (in other words, to consciously and purposefully dress in an outlandish manner), reveals a) a desire to be seen/noticed, b) a desire to stand out from the crowd, c) a desire to make others question their own conventional choices of dress, and perhaps inadvertently (or not) d) make them feel bad or 'square' for these conventional choices. To me, a+b+c+d= VANITY. Or, at least, a modicum of narcissism, pride, or self-regard.
--Someone who wears expensive clothing, whether formal or not, similarly exhibits "b) a desire to stand out from the crowd", but not, however, "a) a desire to be seen or noticed", because expensive clothing can often be subtle and non-ostentatious, or only recognizable by a certain elite group-- and also not "d)", above, but something similar, e) a desire to make others feel bad about their lack of wealth, or, f) a desire to appear powerful by displaying proof of wealth. b+e+f=not exactly vanity, but something related, something more practical and more brutal: DESIRE FOR POWER.
Traditional (upper-class) Dandyism represents a cross between the two.
It is the desire to stand out from the crowd that reveals vanity and denies deference.
--A certain submission to what Brandon calls "homogeneous formalities" signals one's deference towards a certain social tradition. However, if the formalities to which one submits belong to a social tradition based on contrarian dress, such as the "Carnaby Street Punk" tradition, or the "Olneyville Patchwork Neon" tradition, the deferential gesture is directed towards such a small group of people that in most situations it would communicate instead defiant condescension. In order for the deference to succeed, one must appeal to a more universal, classical tradition.
Now, an anticlimactic digression:
--I realize now that, in most contemporary, Western cases, the universal tradition is casual, comfortable, and clean.. Clean jeans, clean running shoes, clean T-shirt or sweater. However, thinking historically one may see this universally accepted garb as offensive to the mores of past generations ('when men wore hats'). Proper deference must be filially comprehensive, must take into account the imaginary judgments of forefathers long gone. Filial piety does not and should not cease with parental death. Therefore, to be historically as well as contemporarily deferential, I would argue, one must take into account past traditions.
--However, this of course does not work, since wearing 18th century culottes today would be perceived as outlandish and dandyish. Therefore, historical and contemporary cultural deference is not possible due to inevitable cultural progression.
--But, certain antique customs which differ from contemporary customs may still be universally interpreted as deferential, and by adopting these customs one accomplishes the fantastic paradox of being at once deferential and critical: whence comes eternal power of classicism-- perhaps?
Personal Strategies
To put myself out on a limb, perhaps giving away too much, I would like to detail my own half-baked personal strategies for dealing with clothing, at the moment (subject to change):
Clothing, for me, should be...
-old (symbolizing filial piety, deferential by imitating past generations.. but also , selfishly, indulging my own nostalgic fantasies)
-a bit shabby but not too raggedy (showing respect but not wealth)
-dignified but not too formal (displaying, and also enabling, a serious-minded nature, and again not wealth. Perhaps also preventing excessive comic-mindedness, something I find destructively censorial.)
-simple colors (minimizing vanity [increasing deference] by not trying to attract attention)
-attractive, perhaps tightly-fitting (acknowledging role as sexual object/subject, something which, along with yielding aesthetic and romantic joy [seeing someone beautiful/attractive, provoking desire, leading to love], acts as a useful reminder of a certain social constant. This can of course be taken too far and communicate either perversion or vanity.)
-marginally uncomfortable, i.e. not athletic wear (deferential, a willingness to sacrifice comfort for social interaction, promoting a certain lack of personal indulgence... a bit Christian, yes, but symbolically effective)
However, one can of course add all these things up and conclude that such attention to what one wears = VANITY as well. But somehow I think that ignoring clothing's complex system of meaning and just wearing "any ol' thing" (uniform of sneakers, baggy jeans, t-shirt, sweatshirt, whatever) signals an unwillingness to take an active and analytic role in one's own involvement in society. And that, I think, prepares oneself for mediocrity and manipulation.
PERMANENT SELF-QUESTIONING, my only motto/battle cry.
*quote was from Zizek, although not at all a Zizekian idea, just a handy quote. However, it was taken from the book, How To Read Lacan, which some of you may be interested to know is now available for free here: http://www.lacan.com/zizhowto.html --for those interested it is a good introduction to Lacan, I recommend it. With Zizek, however, one must be aware of the differences between Zizekian and Lacanian ideas, just as one must be aware of the difference between Lacanian and Freudian ideas.. although all three are simply products of the overarching "Freudian revolution of which Freud himself was not fully aware," as Zizek puts it.------also:
This quote from the same Zizek book offers some insight onto the relation of sexuality and clothing in terms of Islam:
"The Taliban not only forced women to walk in public completely veiled, they also prohibited them wearing shoes with too solid (metal or wooden) heels, and ordered them to walk without making too loud a clicking noise which may distract men, disturbing their inner peace and dedication. This is the paradox of surplus-enjoyment at its purest: the more the object is veiled, the more intensely disturbing is the minimal trace of its remainder. "
The veiling of women is an attempt to make their forms as invisible as possible in daily life. This seems radically more erotic than Western society, where a woman can bare large areas skin and not inspire the slightest titilation. To a Muslim the mere presence of a woman is erotic enough to induce the most sinful thoughts. This sheds a different light on the story someone brought up during the meeting about the men who said they "couldn't control themselves" around western women parading around Arab countries in bikini tops. If the mere presence of a woman inspires sinful thoughts, one can imagine how an encounter with an attractive woman in a sexy bathing suit could easily inspire a temporary erotomaniacal psychosis.